Last night we decided to drop into town again and not wanting to walk all the way, we had our choice between a normal taxi and the water taxi. Naturally, we picked the least efficient of the two, the water taxi. These guys are everywhere on the beach, and it only takes a few moments to wave one down, the problem is getting on board, since they try to time themselves with the waves. With six of us getting in, it was a fucking circus. Yulia and Sasha had no trouble, but the rest ambled about, no knowing what to do. so I threw my shoes into the boat, held the front of the boat still and planted my feet into the sand while they climbed in, waves crashing about us and the pilot jockeying the engine. Once they were in, I shoved hard and had to do a somersault to make it in as the boat pulled away. I still travel with my Pan Am Airlines bag and straw hat, no nothing was lost.
Once underway, the other passengers in the boat were headed out to Lover’s beach and the Arch, so we got a quick tour of the harbor. The arch is beautiful, but actually a pretty small rock formation. nevertheless, it’s really cool to see close up. We then headed around the rocks, and the pilot told us to look through the bottom of the boat at the local fish. All the taxis are Glass-Bottomed-Boats, or more accurately, Filthy-Scratched-Plexiglass-Bottomed-Boats, but we were still able to see a few shapes moving below, and with a bit of imagination, I could assume that they were fish.
After getting dropped off at the Marina, we braved the gauntlet of merchants, street urchins, and timeshare drones to head towards the mall and restaurant district. Looking into the water we could see huge schools of fish, eels and skates swimming about. About halfway down the waterfront we ran into one of those “Get your child’s picture taken with a poisonous or dangerous animal” stands. In this case, starring a baby lion. Naturally, we forced the kids to holds still (baby lions can smell fear, and fresh meat) and snapped a few shots. At this point it was getting pretty hot, and we had to make a break for Haggen Daaz, the traditional Mexican location for cooling down in the afternoon.
Cabo is a hotbed of new construction. The mall where we are at is about half empty, and not even fully complete. The waterfront has less of the older traditional family Mexican places you saw before, and lots of upscale dining and swanky clubs and bars. Fortunately there are still lots of kids trying to sell you gum, so you know that you are still in Mexico. We stopped for a bit at the Museum of Tequila, which is a small tequila shop with a couple of cool displays of agave production, some stills, and a bit of history. Since we took a tequila factory tour on our last trip, I knew the whole story of how tequila is produced, and talked with the guy for a bit about the family tequila farm we visited. He seemed actually surprised that we knew about the whole process, and was happy to give us samples of some of their better bottles. We may be forced to visit this place again.
We wandered a bit more around the waterfront, then headed out for the beach to find a place to eat on the water. We ended up at The Office, one of Cabo’s landmark bars. We were before the evening rush, so they got us a table right on the edge of the beach. Not a cheap place by any means, but the quality of the food was fantastic. We also appreciated that the menu was neither American Tourist Standard, nor This-is what-Americans-expect-Mexican-food-to-taste-like fare. It was good local fish, and meats, and really done perfectly. Made it much more worth the cost. Sadly it had a bit too much tourist flair, as there was a pirate-bandito guy wandering about, and a clown making balloon animals. Despite this, it was still great food and drink.
We walked back up the beach after dinner, and realized that we were standing on the exact spot where we were five years before. Originally we thought it was much closer to our hotel, in the empty space next door, because the place we were dropped off by the taxi back then was the end of the developed part of the beach. But we figured out that our current hotel is much further, the spot where we were was much closer in town, right next to The Office. Five years ago, there were only two bars here, and a little concrete building with restrooms on the beach. Now the bars are there, but buried in hotels and condos. If we hadn’t seen the little concrete building there we would never have recognized it. There is an empty beach with a little restaurant by our hotel, but I can only imagine that getting developed as well at some point.
We had hoped to find a tour out to some more remote town, to see a bit of unspoiled architecture and culture, like our trip out to Copala, but there doesn’t seem to be anything like that out here. I’d love to find something unspoiled to see, but as with most tourism, just being there can spoil an area. So maybe isolating the tourists off in their own Wildlife Preserve isn’t such a bad idea after all. Just so long as I can get my drinks with a little umbrella in them.
Right behind this glass
there’s a real blade of grass
be careful as you pass
move along, move along….